Back in October of 2003, I was hell-bent to learn how to surf when I first went to Kauai. I hate cold water (I was living in San Francisco at the time), and I wanted my first surfing experience to be in warm water. So, I arranged lessons with a local surf instructor in Kauai. When I arrived to the beach for the lesson, my surf instructor looked ashen, and mumbled in a low voice, “Not sure if we should have a lesson today…one of our local girls was brutally attacked by a shark at a nearby spot. Really severe. But, it’s up to you.”
That local girl was Bethany Hamilton. I went ahead and took my first surf lesson – but I gotta admit – I was more than a bit spooked. Ever since, I’ve followed Bethany’s story closely.
“Courage, sacrifice, determination, commitment, toughness, heart, talent, guts. That’s what little girls are made of; the heck with sugar and spice.”
– bethany hamilton :: professional surfer
– bethany hamilton :: professional surfer
+ Sources:
• Soul Surfer (2011) :: DVD released on August 2, 2011 :: Amazon
• Bethany Hamilton :: website
